A case of the munchies!

Till Friday 27th February 2009 - Frustratingly my computer has decided to take a duvet day...... its not working and my pile of work is increasing! Luckily I have a meeting, which takes me into the Park to assess the river at Die Stroom. Me and my land loving legs are gathering information about kayaks and canoeing to increase the activities experienced by both, the disadvantaged kids and tourists visiting the Park. I get my first taste of off roading, my passenger Ruhan, is totally unimpressed and demands to drive on the way back - I obviously drive like a girl!

Talking of lightweight, I'm catching Zzzzzz for England, I'm putting it down to the heat, rather than my age! Tonight my beauty sleep is broken by noises outside, dare I look outside?! My bambi nets don't offer much in the way of protection! We have wood stored around the outside of the house ready for winter, what if it's a poacher - will I find the ability to scream?! Gingerly I approach the window, my eyes slowly becoming accustomed to the dark. What is it? The back end of something! Monochrome stripes! It's a zebra, enjoying a noisey feast at 2.30 a.m. - how inconsiderate! I watch as the zebra munches away literally 2 metres from my bedroom window, it is a youngster and is soon joined by it's mommy. Two noisy beggars.......yet Asanda, whose bedroom is the same side as mine, sleeps through the whole episode.

I have become mentor and perturbingly 'mother' as he called me (talk about feeling ancient) to Ruhan, he has aspirations to work with an overland company, and ultimately combine travelling the world, together with his missionary work. I reworked his seven page CV down to a practical two, and we e-mailed it to Oasis Overland, the company I wish to use on my next expedition! So fingers crossed.

This week, sat in the middle of the ant run across my office, I work into the night and set up my very own fundraising web page, how exciting eh, www.justgiving.com/tracybrookshaw after which I find time to polish my halo. Thank you to all those people that have already generously donated their hard earned cash to this noble cause. I am aiming to raise 500 pounds for Mabunda Primary School (post Food, Glorious Food) to reconstruct the damaged classrooms, and also provide much needed equipment.

Continuing with the ant theme, Thursday morning is spent with the Iimbovane Project, monitoring the ants in the Park, they are accompanied with six coloured children from Swellendam Secondary School, which is fantastic.

My angelic work from the previous night pays dividends, as Thursday continues I am blessed in so many ways, the sun is shining, 70 pounds worth of donations has hit my web page overnight, Kirsteen and I have been published in SANParks monthly magazine 'Go Wild' (the Bontebok team are amazed by my photo with the python), there is a herd of Bontebok outside my office, together with the old man tortoise, the veld is covered in crimson ball amaryllis and 400 lubricated condoms have mysteriously arrived in my office. Last, but not least I receive a letter from home, from 'Grannie' as Phiebe calls her. The not so perfect end to the perfect day is arriving home to a leak water pouring through the ceiling, flooding the hall, bathroom and kitchen. The whole house smells like wet dog! Oh well you can't have it all!

The weekend brings a girlie weekend to Wilderness National Park, and an early finish on Friday! Maybe this solves the 'rubber' mystery! I e-mail Phiebe clarifying that although Bulelwa and I are single, we intend to be good girls whilst away, and even if we weren't, 200 condoms each in a tad excessive! I am advised that I need to get a shift 'cos a batch of 400 arrives each month! Flaming Nora! It's like riding a bike, right?!?

Luck will have it - the condoms are to be displayed in the ablution block and Park toilets, so what comes naturally, can be enjoyed safely! Phewwwww!

Empty your pockets!!

Last week I spoke via the modern communication known as the telephone - to a journalist from the News of the World, writing a feature on 'From Redundancy to Adventure'
If the article comes to fruition, it should be published in the next month or so and I'm hoping I'll feature, taking my current plebb status to that of minor celebrity. They have requested four photos, before and after or as I like to call it, from gorgeous to bush tucker...... well if I don't blow my own trumpet!
On a serious note, I have asked the paper to help me raise 500 pounds for the Mabunda school - see post Food, Glorious Food. They desperately need the use of those damaged classrooms, and I've allowed an additional 140 pounds to buy essential equipment they need, such as books!
I know its the credit crunch and all that.......... but if you could rake down the back of the sofa and find a couple of quid to donate, I'd be ever so grateful!

See link - Donate to Mabunda Primary School on this site or alternatively check out www.justgiving.com/tracybrookshaw to make a donation.

Thanks guys. Mmwwaahhhhhh

Ever decreasing circles.......

Till Sunday 22nd February 2009 - Hallelujah! This week sees the end of preparations for the SPAF meeting....... till the next one in May at least! With a sense of dread, I preempt being asked to take the meeting minutes, and sure enough, the question came! No biggy right! You'd think - but I've never taken minutes before, and I'm sat in a room of near 20 strangers, whose names I cannot pronounce, let alone spell, (Mijnardt, or Maynard to you and me), and the speaker is talking at a rate of knots, about subjects I barely understand, with a few obligatory South African acronyms thrown in for good measure! Arggghhhh!!!
Cunning plan, if I produce a dismal set of minutes, surely I won't be asked to act as secretary again! Unfortunately, my minutes pass with flying colours - dam and blast - it must be my Mothers' genes! Although typing them up was not without incident! The Rangers surged the system and all electrical equipment cuts out - just as I'm nearing the very end! Murder by insanity! A miracle for them, my work has saved!

Confirming I'm working in the wilds, I had an unexpected visitor fly into my office, a swallow no less, which took to circling the ceiling - I know the feeling! Also a Red hartebeest galloped past my window, and Fred the 30 year old tortoise is back on his favourite patch of grass in front of my office! So I am not short of mates!

Which is a good thing by all accounts as my friendship with the Desert Wee Lassie has hit rocky ground!

Not content with just one sighting, the greedy little minx has now seen Mr Leo Pardus TWICE! To add insult to injury, Kirsteen had the gall to e-mail me a piccy of the magnificent creature (personally I think she's googled the image!).

An official tongue in cheek complaint was hastily written to the GVI co-ordinator insisting on an immediate transfer........to which I receive the jest response, that nowhere in my GVI contract is a sighting of leopard guaranteed, that I need to stop complaining and be content with bontebok! Charming!

The dirt tracks on the park became a little less safer this week, as I take one of the bakkies out for a spin, chaperoned by the obliging Bulelwa! Thankfully all the tortoise get to live another day! Next week, avoiding the pedestrians in town when I get to experience foreign roads!!! Bring it on!

My weekend unexpectedly picked up the pace, after being invited to join Bulelwa and Phiebe on Saturday, who were playing hostesses to the visiting Trony and Andries from Pretoria HQ. We socialised all afternoon and late into the night, eating, drinking, chatting and listening to Xhosa music! All very relaxed, it was difficult to image that just 11 years ago, it would have been illegal for them to have made my acquaintance!

Sunday was spent in my usual haunt near the river, my nose firmly in the book 'What is the What' about a Sudanese boy refugee and his harrowing journey to safety in Ethiopia. Not my usual reading material I must admit, lets say my horizons are being broadened.

With many lift offers declined, I walk parallel to the mountains and see the veld change week by week, thanks to the previous rain, bulbs have started to sprout, although a member of the amaryllis family, many look like crimson alliums flowering just centimetres off the ground. They are quite spectacular.

Strangled cat!

Sunday 15th February 2009 - Taking full advantage of the fact I am still home alone, I take to walking around the house in my underwear and sing my little heart out to my IPod! What can I say needs must!

Finally getting dressed, with hat set at a jaunty angle, I make my weekly pilgrimage to the river, with yet another new book! As the Die Stroom is closed, the campsite is overflowing with folk!

Today is a little overcast and it looks like rain, so I don't stay too long, and entertain the veld with my vocal attributes on the way back. Not quite scaring away all the wildlife - I see a snake on the road, its just a ickle baby one, so no girlie shreiks!

The rest of the afternoon is spent keeping my blog up to date - I truly hope you guys appreciate all my efforts!!!

I love you, baby!

Saturday 14th February 2009 - So as the world celebrates the over commercialised, arm twisted behind your back forced romance that is induced by the patron of St Valentine. I head into Swellendam, a bitter singleton! Having said that, for once I seem to be in the right place, there are not bunches of red roses at every turn, chocolates on every aisle or public shows of love and affection on the street! Phewww, I might just survive this one with my sanity!
Having picked up my weekly groceries, a bargain at approximately 15 pounds, (yes Mother - I'm eating healthily), I travel back to the Park with Evie and Oom Karal. Baie dankie!
My depression over the annual day of lurrrvve becomes unwarranted, with a cute bear gift on Facebook and an email wishing me a Happy Valentines Day from my Japanese friend, whom I met in Paris and is currently in Belgium. Confused? Yes so am I!
So, how many true valentines did you receive today?

Home Alone

Friday 13th February 2009 - should I stay in bed, do you think?
Today is spent working on a logo for SPAF and preparations for Kids in Parks.
Tonight I will be home alone, Asanda having left for Cape Town on the City to City bus, yesterday. Ruhan hot on her tail, himself leaving for Cape Town today, although taking the more dangerous option of hitching! What can I say, the lad must be a sandwich short of a picnic!

Flora and Fauna

Thursday 12th February 2009 - As the days progress into normality, I will reduce my posts (thank gawd I hear you cry!) to possibly one a week, so I have more content to write about. Unless of course something major occurs, that must be reported!

Today I wrote back home to Nestle, York to see if they will generously donate any of their wonderful products to our Kids in Parks this year! Well if you don't ask, you don't get! Keep your fingers crossed for a positive outcome!

I also meet Flora, a lady whose descendants are originally from Scotland, she is our plant expert and we (Flora, Michael and myself) hope to re-establish a plant monitoring group of children from the local school over the next month or so.

Hubble, bubble, toil and trouble!

Wednesday 11th February 2009 - Today is our staff meeting, we all congregate in the Boardroom. As a team building exercise, this evening, we were all going to eat together - Bontebok Potjie! A potjie is a kind of a stew, cooked for several hours over a wood fire in a container, which looks by all accounts like a cauldron! Potjie pots can be bought in various sizes, depending how many you are wanting to feed! An unwilling volunteer in Bulelwa is found to be placed in charge (see photo).
It has come to the attention of the rangers, we have another injured Bontebok out on the veld, this one is lame, possibly suffering from a broken leg! I am invited to join them on their expedition of mercy!

Riding up front with Michael, we finally locate the animal. Michael being the only qualified ranger gets his rifle ready, Zan takes the wheel, letting Phiebe sit upfront, I clamber into the back of the bakkie with the boys. As Michael approaches the desperately thin animal on foot, it makes a run for it as considerable speed in view of its condition. Zan (Schumacher) follows in suit with the bakkie over the bumpy veld, trying to encourage the beast into Michaels range! Five to ten minutes of hot pursuit ensued, my boney little arse not being conducive to be thrown around over rough terrain, sustained a bruise, the size of your fist! Which was nothing in comparison to the fate of the poor Bontebok, which was ultimately shot and is likely to become biltong (dried meat) in the not too distant future!

Travelling back, we are ready for our well earned potjie, and just as it is ready, sods law! My mobile rings, it's the call from the UK that I've been awaiting all week, a reporter from a well known tabloid, wanting to interview me. Apologetically I take the call, only to return to find the gang have saved me some potjie, but eaten all the rice! Charming!

The bontebok potjie was very enjoyable accompanied with Mrs Ball's (unfortunate name) hot chilli sauce!

Give us a croggy!

Tuesday 10th February 2009 - Pretty uneventful day today, its raining! Had a quick trip into town to get my poster printed at Nuus O Rama! One of the rangers will pin them up across Swellendam at the weekend!

Oh I must share my excitement, and forgive me 'cos this will only interest those of you who were fortunate enough to enjoy your misspent youth during the late 70's, early 80's. The bread here is not sealed with those yellow fiddlely, neither use or ornament, plastic tabs, but with the old fashioned square plastic reuseable seals, which have the ultimate dual purpose! When you finished the loaf - you can decorate the spokes of your bike with 'em, for maximum effect when going top speeds! Ain't life brilliant!

Sweeney Todds

Monday 9th February 2009 - We wake up to a new morning and still no power....... the kitchen smells distastefully like a butchers, and we still have the major problem of one bontebok, cut into chunks and no means of refrigeration! Luckily for us the electricity comes back on about 8.30 am and disaster is averted, and as to appear for nowhere, a new fridge/freezer arrives in the student household! Cool!

Today is spent using my creative talents to produce a colourful poster for the Flight for Birders weekend in April, and then attending the SPAF workgroup this afternoon to sort out the charter.

There is still no sign of Houdini the Hamster!

Way too much testosterone!

Sunday 8th February 2009 - Sunday again, shadowed by the Langeberg Mountains, I walk direct road for 3km to Lang Elsies Kraal, settle myself near the river, picking a shady spot under a tree to read my latest book!

I recognise a family that had been here the week before and get chatting to one of the ladies, her and her family had moved from Cape Town to Swellendam just over a year ago, and enjoyed many a Sunday afternoon here at Bontebok, where the kids could enjoy the river.

There is a cool breeze down near the water, not fully appreciating the heat of the afternoon, I make a hasty retreat back home, all will be explained later! I barely make it, my face, a beautiful shade of beetroot! Attractive!

Back home, Michael and Ruhan have brought in a dead Bontebok on the back of the bakkie. The animal had been severally injured in a fight, one of its eye hanging from its socket, giving Michael no option but to shoot it, putting it out of its misery. With a waste not, want not attitude, permission is sort to keep the Bontebok for meat and I am cordially invited to watch the proceeds. After a poor start, I think I have sunstroke, and Michael re-adjusting the animals eye is too much, I go for a lay down, before I fall down!

Feeling a bit of a wuss, I regain my composure and join Ruhan, to watch the master at work (see photo, not for the squeamish). Ruhan having previously been employed on a farm, has experience in this field, and has already removed its head by the time I arrive. I gingerly sit down, only to have a pair of testicles thrown in my direction! Oh balls!

Within an hour, we have several choice cuts of bontebok........... and one problem! We are still without electricity! Well, we are in Africa you know! To the best of his ability Ruhan puts the meat into one of the spare fridges and hopes for the best!

Later that evening, I spot a huge tortoise, it must be at least 30 years old, munching on the grass near reception, watching the sun go down!

NOT Going Wild about the Afrikaan I met in the river today, with the apparent inability to woe a woman! Hence my hasty retreat! It is not appropriate to introduce yourself, babe in one hand and then proceed with the other to feel up my legs! Firstly I don't like it, secondly I don't think your wife would either! Repeating that you find me 'very sexy' does not magically make it OK, seriously dude where are your manners?!?

The old man is snoring!

Saturday 7th February 2009 - You will be pleased to know, the house is full of all mod cons, we have a television with the worlds worst reception, Asanda loves her South African soapies! A kitchen with microwave, oven and fridge! We have a rusty old bike in our sitting room too. What the house is lacking - is a washing machine, and although there is a laundry service in town, I am currently washing my clothes in the bath tub! Well they did say this program was going to be life changing!!!

After a morning of rub a dub tub, I pop into town with Jan (the quietest of all the Rangers) to post some letters back to the UK, use the ATM and grab some groceries. You may feel its a little strange - me mentioning using the ATM - it's an every day occurrence right! Well believe me in SA - it is a BIG deal! There is a high chance of being robbed or conned at an ATM, so much so that in the quaint town of Swellendam, there is a long line of people waiting to use an ATM in a kiosk with a lockable door, the bank opposite doesn't have kiosk facilities and ATM is available for use without waiting, needless to say I join the queue!

Trying to integrate myself into the community, I call into the Swellendam Craft and Country Fayre on the way home, to see what is going on. I am introduced to John Tuck, a member of SPAF, whom I have been emailing all week - it is nice to put face to the name.

This evening, the rains come, you can see the lightning on the horizon, we lose power at 1.00 am, not that I witness it, I'm tucked up in bed!

Escapee in the house - one of the hamster has done a Houdini! Asanda won't be a happy bunny!

Going wild about the Hoopoe in the garden, I've wanted to see one since I was knee high to a grasshopper. Awwww bless!

I see the sea, the sea sees me!

Friday 6th February 2009 - Today I travel with Carli and Bulelwa to Witsand to attend the Breede River Estuary Advisory Forum, or you've guess it BREAF! The meeting is held at the Breede River Lodge and has wonderful views of the Estuary, although I was disappointed there are no signs of the 4ft Zambezi shark!

The drive takes about an hour, journeying through fairly barren looking farmland. There is the occasional field of farmed ostrich, which tend to run around the periphery fencing for no apparent reason, their feathers being ruffled in the wind!

After a quick look out to sea and watching the kite surfing dudes, we head back to Park on an alternative route. Fields of sunflowers, their heads all facing the sun, brighten my day.

This evening, Asanda regales some frightening tales from her childhood about apartheid, and how as a small child, her Xhosa family were forced to flee Johannesburg to live with relatives in Cape Town. The Zulus and Xhosa were at war, townships were killing each other.

All creatures, great and SMALL!

Thursday 5th February 2009 - Daphne and Bruce seem to have an aversion for anything that can be seen with the naked eye! Today Ruhan and I are out with them again, this time looking for different varieties of Haworthia (Marginata, Minima and Mirabilis) - a type of succulent. They are flowering at the moment, which is probably the only way you are going to spot them out in the veld. Although saying that the flower is the equivalent size to a grain of rice, and the stem stands about 10cm high! Needle in a hay stack comes to mind!

Proving me completely and utterly wrong, we do find these species growing in several areas of the veld. The succulent plant itself covers the surface area of a twenty pence piece and is poking about 5mm out of the ground! Hallelujah for flowering season!

What's up doc?

Wednesday 4th February 2009 - Again enjoying the early morning creatures outside my bedroom window, today an enormous Scrub hare reminded me of 'Curse of the Wererabbit', it was huge!

Walking the whole 100 yards to work, I concentrate on preparation for Kids in Parks, 500 children descending on the Park, an annual pilgrimage for some schools! It's not till October, so I have plenty of time to panic!

Tonight Ruhan and I are out scouting for Knysna Dwarf chameleons or Bradypodion Damaranum if you want to get technical. Meeting Daphne and Bruce (chameleon enthusiasts), we each grab a torch, and wander over the veld looking at the trees, where the reptiles like to perch apparently! Unfortunately the little critters evade us, although we do see a Puff Adder on the road, thankfully we were in the car at the time!

You've got to have faith.

Tuesday 3rd February 2009 - Today I make two charts, one for the years Calendar Days, and the other for Kids in Park, proper Blue Peter styley - just need some toilet rolls and sticky back plastic. The calendar is setting environmental days throughout the year, where we can get involved with the local community or invite them into the Park. For example National Bird Week, Youth Day, Womens Day, Worlds AIDS Day.

Tonight, as he cooks a Mount Kilimanjaro of food, I get to know Ruhan a little better. He is 22, Afrikaan and was brought up in Cape Town. He is what we say in Yorkshire - like a yard of pump waater, yet he eats like a horse - growing lad I suppose. He seems to have a sensible head on his shoulders with a clear idea of his future. He has found what he has been looking for and that is God, he talks very openly and enthusiastically about his faith. At times I had to remember I was talking to a 22 year old, it was refreshing and in many ways quite humbling.

Ice Ice Baby!

Monday 2nd February 2009 - I'm sure my housemates think I'm totally mad........I've taken to de-icing the freezer, no lie - it's three inches thick! Note to self....... get a life!!

Today is spent inviting everyone and his dog to the next SPAF meeting - Swellendam Protected Areas Forum. Have you noticed yet? Everything in SA is abbreviated! Acronyms bouncing off the walls!

Asanda show me pictures of her beautiful daughter Kuhle, or Anglea to me, because I struggle to pronounce her name and that's the english version. Kuhle, a millenium baby, is nine this year, she lives with her grandparents, whilst Asanda studies in Tourism. She is very beautiful, recently photographed for a Coca Cola campaign! Cynthia jokes with Asanda that she brought the wrong baby home!

I have a new past time, watching the sun go down over the veld. The sky is ablaze most nights.

These boots were made for walking

Sunday 1st February 2009 - As it was feeling a little left out, its was the showers turn today! The South African CIF was into action! After my blitz, with bontebok watching and its occasional warning snort I took myself off, walking about 3km to Lange Elsie Kraal, where I sat near the Breede river and relaxed with a book!
I even plucked up the courage to dip my toes, once or twice, despite the news stories of the large Zambezi shark that had made its way into the river! Don't worry I haven't gone completely mad - it was way up stream in the estuary!
I finished the day, making use of my sketch pad, having a dabble with my pastels, although I'm not too sure we are going to get on OK.

Exterminate!

Saturday 31st January 2009 - I wake up bright and early, open my bambi printed nets (classy!) and find bontebok, together with his friend Mr Tortoise! Now you don't get that at home.

With a clear conscience, the fridge is cleaned and all food past its best chucked - with my housemates permission, of course!!

In the afternoon, Oom Karal (the Oom being a mark of respect) drove me, Asanda, Evie and Zan into Swellendam, to pick a few essentials at SPAR! Swellendam is about 8km from BNP, it is very picturesque, with thatched houses dotted everywhere. It is a very popular tourist destination, on the N2 (main road) to Cape Town from the Garden Route, hence it has over 100 B&Bs.

Today, marks the start of my South African adventure as it is written for prosperity - for the whole world to see! My baby blog is born!

You're made your bed...........

Friday 30th January 2009 - Carli, Park Manager is back, I now have a list of jobs as long as my mozi bitten arm, life certainly ain't gonna be dull.

As I mentioned before Bontebok is the smallest of the National Park, hence the work force is in many ways like a family, they all pull together. Which I witness today, in the middle of my Park orientation, one of the chalet maids needs to go home urgently, Carli, Gerta, Bulelwa and myself set on and make beds for tonights guests!

Today I finally meet Asanda, my other housemate, she has been in Cape Town registering with the University. As a welcome, she generously cooks me a huge plate of chicken, veggies and pap for my tea.

I have a feeling I am going to like it here.

New Kid on the Block!

Thursday 29th January 2009 - My first day working at Bontebok National Park. I am part of the People and Conservation department, there is one team member - ME! Looks like I'm running the show then! I meet a few of the Bontebok team, Bulelwa (who assures me I will be able to pronounce her name by Monday!), Phiebe, Cynthia and Garter, who are all very friendly. The Park Manager, Carli is away today, so I set on and acclimatise myself with the computer and filing systems in my office.

The student house, which I share with Ruhan and Asanda, will be my home for the next few months, it is what I have called shabby chic, without the chic! It is not what I am use to, but then I never expected it to be, it is a little raw around the edges, but comfortable.

I have my own room under lock and key, then share kitchen, living space and bathroom facilities. The fridge currently has its very own eco-system, my concern being if I clean it, we could well lose the cure for cancer! And the shower isn't much better! A couple of jobs for the weekend me thinks.

There are two housemates that I didn't expect - two little russian hamsters, which remind me of Scratch and Squeak, my childhood pets! Ruhan is looking after them for a friend.

I have been bitten by the local hoe hoes - the bites are the size of your head, OK slight exaggeration, but one does cover half my forearm! My official welcome to Bontebok!

Bontebok National Park

Bontebok National Park (BNP) is 240km from Cape Town and 8km from the picturesque town of Swellendam. Overlooking the Langeberg mountains BNP is the smallest National Park in South Africa, covering approximately 4000ha.

BNP was formed to protect a type of antelope, the Parks namesake - the Bontebok (see photo - what a handsome chap). The numbers of the animal had been declining since 1800s, and were reduced to just 30, the world population now being over 2500, 200 of which are managed here at BNP.

BNP is also home to many other animals including Cape Mountain Zebra, Red hartebeest, Grey rhebok and Grysbok, with noturnal actives from Caracal, Bat-eared fox, Cape fox and Aardwolf. Other species include 12 types of fish, 10 types of frog, at least 18 types of snakes (bring it on!) including the toxic Puff adder and Cape cobra, 6 types of lizard, 3 types of tortoise, one lonely species of terrapin and not forgetting at least 200 different types of recorded bird life.

More than a haven for bird and mammals, the Park is situated in the smallest, but richest of the worlds' six floral kingdoms, BNP is an island is renosterveld, the most threatened sub-type of fynbos.

There are over 7700 different types of plants in fynbos, most of these plants do not grow naturally in any other part of the world. Bear in mind the whole of the United Kingdom has approximately 2000 plant species.

So I'm 'Going Wild' about Bontebok National Park, I think you'd agree, it's pretty awesome place!

Away to the Mother City

Wednesday 28th January 2009 - Leaving Haenertsburg bright and early, with a running commentary regarding the area from Pete, we make our way to Johannesburg. I am dropped at Oliver Tambo International Airport, with a quick farewell to Pete and my comrade Kirsteen, and I mean quick, having literally 10 minutes to get through security, find my gate and board the plane!
Kirsteen was spending the night at the 'Backpackers', and catching a 12 hour bus to Uppington, where she would spend another evening alone, before being picked up and driving several hours to Kgalagadi National Park, which is part of the Kalahari desert. Totally extreme dude!
I sit through my flight to Cape Town, feeling a right khaki scruff, I kid you not, I'm sure I was sat opposite a South African super model, who was travelling with her camper than camp companion, both dressed to the nines!
Navigating my dodgy trolley into arrivals, I spot the SANParks uniform and introduce myself to Michael, my trusty Bontebok Ranger, and bakkie ride to the Park!
Cape Town, like Jo'burg is undergoing major reconstruction for FIFA 2010, yet as we drive on the motorway for as far as the eye can see there is shanty town. I have never seen anything like it, and having been to many developing countries in my time, thats saying summat!
Making a brief stop at a new very plush shopping centre (build for the tourists, yes you've guessed it - ready for 2010!), I whizz around the aisles in a supermarket sweep styley, picking up some groceries.
As we make our way out of Cape Town, I get my very first glimpse of Table Mountain, she is beautiful and I can't wait to return to explore properly.
Two and a half hours through dramatic mountainous scenery, we arrive at the Park gates to find a small welcome committee of Bontebok grazing!
Ruhan, one of my housemates, helps me in with my rucksack! I have arrived! I am finally able to unpack my bags, living out of a suitcase the past two weeks has been a bit of a nuisance! And the photographs, hand drawn pictures, cards and well wishes from my nearest and dearest are loving arranged on my bedroom wall. I am home! At least for the next six months anyway!

Arrrrrriba Ondalay Ondalay!!!

Tuesday 27th January 2009 - Our final game drive and no glimpse of fur! As we leave Kruger National Park, we in jest complain to the gateman, we haven't seen any leo pardus - can we stay another week? Unfortunately our humour is lost on him and we are sent on our way!

And away we go, Speedy Gonzalez, full throttle! Two police sat on chairs by the side of the road, wave us down -we've been caught speeding! Best line of defence - get your chest out, I'm kidding! Plead ignorance! In our case, luck is on our side as a cop car is subsequently stopped for speeding, and the occupants given a severe tongue lashing! Phewww we are let off with a warning, and I didn't even have to show 'em my ample bosom!
Heading into the town of Tzaneen, we grab some breakfast (pancakes for me- yummy!) and then the girlies are going shopping! For nothing remotely exciting you understand - me, a pencil sharpener and memory stick, Kirsteen, an adaptor and portable fan, Sandra, a few toilettries and importantly lunch! This kind of retail therapy ain't gonna cure any ails!

GAME has sold all its fans and not considered re-stocking, so after searching for what felt like hours to no avail, we give up and head back to the van.

Now travelling to Petes' for the evening, before leaving for our respective Parks tomorrow. I'm getting a little apprehensive about flying solo, Kirsteen admitted she was of the same opinion. So we made our way to Haenertsburg (now trying saying that to the taxi driver when you're drunk!) within the area of Magdebaskloof (seriously forget it - sleep in the bar!), to find Petes' quaint thatched cottage, surrounded by hydrangeas, looking across the valley onto mountain scape! It took your breath away.

After lunch, we said a sad farewell to Sandra. The rest of the afternoon was spent on the internet, emailing and the like, together with repacking my rucksack, ready for the morning. I've acquired several pieces of uniform and some paperwork etc, so why O why is repacking my stuff like flaming Krypton Factor! Oh and now I'm showing my age - great!

Going Wild about Duiker........sorry I'm scraping the barrel! We didn't see much this morning!

Food, Glorious Food!

Monday 26th January 2009 - Today is a real reality check, we are leaving the Park to visit a disadvantaged school with Patience. Patience works for SANParks, her role means she spends a lot of time within the local communities, trying to build relationships, and arranging KIK - Kids in Kruger, this programme is designed to give underprivileged children the opportunity to visit Kruger.
Travelling kilometre after kilometre on dirt road, we arrive at Mabunda Primary School in Phalaubeni village a little shaken, but not stirred. We are taken to the Headmasters office, (suddenly I feel like a naughty schoolgirl!) where we are introduced to some of the staff members, as we discuss the school and its needs, an air raid siren sounds, I restrain myself and the urge to hide under a desk, as the teachers seem unperturbed! All becomes clear - its break time!

We make our way outside, to see 100s of children lined up, all patiently awaiting their dinner. A huge dollop of mealie pap with veg is on the menu today, served from a little shack. The government provide this meal for the kids and for some of them, it is the only square meal they will receive that day.

One of the teachers interrupts his own lunch to speak to us, some of his words will stay with me and be in the forefront of my mind through my time here 'What you search for, help us' is what he said. I truly hope so.

After meal break Bring, the duty head, shows us around the classrooms, in each class we are greeted by between 40 to 60 smiling faces, with some sitting 3 to a desk. The walls are bare of the colourful hand drawn pictures found in any UK school, curtains have only been provided in those classrooms where the sun shines so brightly the children were unable to work. Needless to say the school is unfunded and desperate for many things including books, their library if you could call it that, contained a maximum of maybe 40 books. Also apparent was the lack of space, with two classrooms being unusable, the effects of lightning some 3 years ago, the school was still waiting for the government to assess the situation and provide the R5000 (a mere 360 pounds sterling) required to fix and refurbish both classrooms. Yet millions are being spent on FIFA 2010.

Generously the school provided us with some light refreshments, Coca Cola/Fanta and some Scottish shortbread, it was then time to bid them farewell.

I am currently raising funds for Mabunda Primary School - please see link - Donate to Mabunda School on this site or check out www.justgiving.com/tracybrookshaw all donations big and small will be much appreciated.

Making our way to Mopani, it is our dinnertime - true South African styley. Leaving our choice to the expert, we let Patience order! Our plate was piled high with Chakalaka, a very hot vegetable curry, pumpkin leaves and ground nuts in a paste consistency, mealie pap, a cross between rice and smash potato, and last but by no means least mopane worms (which look like huge caterpillars) in a tomato and onion sauce! One handedly we tuck in, firstly taking the mealie pap and rolling it into a ball and then creating a hole within the pap to scoop up the other delights. The term 'delights' you understand is used loosely. Taking the bull by the horns, I choose the biggest (what was I thinking) mopane worm, averting my eyes I pop it in my mouth. Its not unpleasant to taste, I think its more the idea of what's rolling around your mouth, you can feel the little legs on your tongue and it's seriously crunchy! I think one is enough! Kirsteen more sensibly choses a small worm and eats only half! Patience thinks the whole episode is hilarious and animatedly tells the locals of our first worm experience!!!!

Thankfully Sandra has had some forethought and put some apples and muffins in the van just in case we get peckish later!
Although we have been on the road for hours, our day is not yet finished and we head to the Masorini to explore the Iron Age site, which was inhabited by the BaPhalaborwa in 1800's. Our mission, should we chose to accept it, being to create some imaginative way to show and explain the exhibits! Kirsteen and I will be working on this together, via e-mail, when we arrive at our respective Parks.
Going Wild about a pod of Hippopotamus - ten of them in a lake.

There's no place like home!

Sunday 25th January 2009 - Paul brings us no luck with the game drive, it is days since we last saw fur! Seriously I am getting withdrawal symptoms!

Today we meet Pearl from the Elephant Hall here in Lebata, home to the great tuskers of Kruger. Pearl firstly gives us an insight into her position at the Elephant Hall and then we have a game of Kruger Challenge, basically designed around Trivial Pursuits, but with a game park theme. With no cheeses - I come from nowhere, winning the game! Oh what sweet victory!

We then spend time looking around the exhibits, which include eight sets of tusks from the great elephants of the past. And can you believe it - amongst the displays I find an advertisement from a business in York, yes York! Advertising elephant rifles of all things - Thomas Horsleys of 10 Coney Street! How bizarre!

Kirsteen and I put our creative talents to good use in the afternoon, creating a poster on the water hyacinth, an invasive alien species, with any luck Lebata will get it printed and use it in future displays. Fame at last!

Going Wild about Marabou storks - the old man of the bush!

Rocking out with your cock out!

Saturday 24 January 2009 - Our last game drive with Pete as he is leaving us today! Title due to Petes descriptive phrase used when male zebra air a certain part of their anatomy! Kirsteen and Pete proceed to have a lengthy discussion, with some extremely imaginative reasonings for such behaviour, somehow I just couldn't find anything intelligent to add!

Before leaving Orpen and travelling to Lebata, we spent a good chunk of the day with Derick du Toit, SA education expert in his seriously condensed training programme, which usually takes several days. Our efforts do not go unrewarded as we all receive a colourful plastic lizard for a job well done - obviously South African version of a gold star!

Sandras boyfriend, who is from Guisborough of all places, joins us for lunch and then drives ahead of us to Lebata, playing a game of bush bingo on the way! Awww bless.

The accommodation at Lebata is out of this world, we have a family house, hosting two bedrooms with en-suites, a large kitchen and living area with huge dining table - call Kevin Moore, we ain't leaving! The house is situated close to the river, so we get to watch hippo, crocs and the odd elephant.

Going Wild about ground hornbill, all three of them, they are on the endangered list you know.

Finger lickin' good!

Friday 23 January 2009 - Over breakfast Sandra regales her previous nights episode - the baboon in the fridge! Sat there with the fridge door wide open mmmm.......what to choose! Cheeky monkey!

Through the thunderstorm and severe fork lightning, we head off into town - Acornhoek to do some food shopping and get a taste of life outside the Park. Pete barefootedly braves the rain saving a puff adder on the road (our hero!).

Lunch is spent at Anjos' - where we sample the best flame Peri Peri braai chicken in the whole of SA, accompanied with mealie pap and washed down with Americas' finest - Coca-Cola. Anjos' business had an unusual start, whilst walking outside his town, he stopped to help a driver with a flat tyre, the guy was transporting frozen chickens, which would be ruined by the time he made his intended destination, he therefore gave his haul to the good Samaritan and Anjos Peri Peri chicken was born! Photo is Kirsteen, Pete and Sandra in Anjos.

Being out of the Park gives you a real sense that you are in Africa, the locals hurriedly go on with their business trying to avoid the rain, ladies balancing either bundles of sticks on their heads or babies on their backs. Children are racing home from school, goats huddled under trucks, trying to stay dry. There are rickety market stalls lined up on the streets, all selling the same thing, bananas, mangos, avocados, onions.

We stop at the local Spar to get most of our provisions, peanut butter and sweet chilli sauce a must or there will be a mutiny! Most of the food available is similar to what you can buy at home without the obvious choice, although we do find packs of calf hooves and a joint of meat with its hide still attached......mmm maybe next time eh! We leave the store after having our receipt and bags checked (job creation) and brave the rain to buy a couple of avos and onions from the ladies on the stalls, trying out our bartering skills too.

As we drive around Acornhoek, it is easy to become perturbed by number of funeral parlours that are running within such a small community. Unfortunately HIV/AIDS is a way of life across South African, with approximately one third of the population being infected with HIV. I personally have found these figures difficult to get my head around.

The HIV/AIDS epidemic increases with a possible 1500 new infections in SA every day. Difficulties such as illiteracy, diversity of population i.e. 11 official languages in SA, lack of infrastructure in rural areas, hinder educational campaigns to actually influence peoples behaviour. Together with inaccurate information provided by people of importance, for example an African politician Jacob Zuma, now running for President was previously tried for raping his niece, who is known to be HIV positive. During his trial, the politician stated that he had consensual sex with the girl and had showered afterwards in the belief that it would decrease his chances of becoming infected. This is worrying to say the least.

Having acquired our marula beer from a large group of high spirited locals (the delicacy of mopane worms being unobtainable, shame!), we journey back on a dirt track, travelling through the local communities, where young children ran out excitedly to wave at the white people in the van. A little cutie sticks in my mind, stood at her gatepost frantically waving, wearing little pink T-shirt saying 'Superstar in the Making!' Life in the rural areas is hard, with some of the children starting work as young as six, as we drive through, we see teenage girls wheelbarrowing barrels of water home.

Eagle eyed Pete to the rescue again, we stop to save a chameleon jerking across the track. As we aren't in the Park, we jump out of the vehicle for a closer look. Aiming for the sun, the chameleon steadily climbs up my hair to get to the top of your head, I tell you its the strangest sensation having an chameleons foot wedged in your ear!

Tonights tea is accompanied by marula beer, very bitter - an acquired taste, me thinks!

Going Wild about giraffe - they are so jurassic looking!

Take a walk on the wild side!

Thursday 22 January 2009 - So what is the guaranteed sure thing to get me out of my bed at 4.00 a.m.? Game Drive! NO, silly!! Bush Walk! Bleary eyed Kirsteen and I meet Gordon and Karral, our bush guides at Orpen's gate at 4.30 a.m., Karral has spotted (pardon the pun) leopard on his drive over, so our morning begins with a quick detour to have a look see by floodlight, unfortunately no leopardus!

Having arrived at the starting point, Kirsteen and I sign our lives away on indemnity forms, as Gordon and Karral load their rifles! Lions roaring and rhino huffings in the distance! The route we're taking has not been walked in over a year due to poachers being in the vicinity, poachers are more dangerous than all the wild animals in the Park, as they are likely to shot on sight. Luckily for us the ring of poachers had recently been arrested by SANParks, therefore leaving the area safe.

So after a quick debrief, we were on our way, single file with Gordon and Karral both ahead of us (apparently it is a proven fact that attacks always occur from the front). Literally five minutes in, we were within 30 metres of 4 white rhino, the problem being the 'crash' included one mother and her calf, with the bull trying to mate with her. The mother spurning his advances, if he successfully mated with her, he most certainly would kill the calf. The crash were extremely agitated and began to stampede, holy crap! With hearts pounding, me and my fellow GVI are swiftly ushered behind a bush! Yes a bush! Luckily we live to tell the tale! Be aware the rangers can shoot a charging animal within 10 metres of humans, rhino can run at 11 metres a second!

The walk continues through sometimes dense bush, with grass tall enough to tickle your nose, stopping to discuss interesting flora and fauna, discovering rhino pits and scratching posts, rhino middens with dung beetle, aardvark burrows, garden and golden orb spiders in their webs, a sighting of two black backed jackals, the list goes on and on. The climax, being within 50 metres of a herd of elephants. We covered 13.7 km, averaging 4 km per hour in the African heat - not bad going for two wee lasses! Photo me, Gordon and Kirsteen approaching elephant (just above Gordons hat in the bushes).

The afternoon was spent washing clothes Widow Twanky styley, relaxing by the pool, throwing frizbee (Pete thought we needed more exercise).

At tea time, Pete did his usual disappearing trick with his mobile phone, standing in the darkness to make his calls! He returned saying that a pride of lions had made a kill, so we all walk to the Parks parameter fence, cup our hands behind our ears to hear lion fighting over the carcass.

Going Wild about a crash of six white rhino seen on our game drive - that's 10 rhino in one day!

Lions, tigers and bears oh my!

Wednesday 21 January 2009 - So what is the guaranteed sure thing to get me out of bed at 4.45 a.m.?? Robbie Williams in his underpants? Close!! Answer - Game Drive! As soon as the alarm goes, it's up, dressed, bit of brekkie and we're off! It is hard to explain the appeal to someone who hasn't experienced a game drive! Of course there is the ridiculous early start, then hours and hours of spent looking into dense green foliage, getting eye strain, seeing only dense green foliage with a smattering of impala! But then there is the upside. For me I guess it's a combination of things, seeing the sun slowly rise, the stillness and freshness of the bush, the smell and the anticipation, it truly alerts all the senses.

On our final drive in Satara, I can see a structure on the horizon, unsure as to what it is, binos at the ready, I thought I'd check it out! Oh just a water container, man made water hole for those tall enough i.e giraffe and elephant! But wait, whats that....fur! Lion I shout! Just to the edge of the container is a magnificent male lion strutting his stuff. By now the vans shrieked to a halt, with all three occupants binos glued to the lion area, and on closer inspection, there look - in the grass, an ear twitched - he's not alone, he has a female companion! So we sit and we watch, we sit a little longer and watch some more, seriously I could be here all day!

Then on the horizon, all ears and tusk! A male elephant taking advantage of the drinking facilities! The elephant promptly chases off the lioness, has a drink, ignoring the male lion, wanders off in the opposite direction. Hold on, wait a minute - I could have some fun here me thinks (Ellie), turning round, he charges at the male lion! Leo scampers off quick sharp, then realising Ellies game, turns back all hard like - I'm not scared of you! Walking back past Ellie to his woman......'saw him off babe', she looks totally unimpressed! So all in all just an average game drive really!

The rest of the day is taken up with a First Aid assessment, drive to Orpen and then bird and tree analysis. Fabulous!

Going Wild about lions roaring in the darkness as we eat our tea.

Go on........give us a kiss!

Tuesday 20 January 2009 - Hello my name is Tracy, I am an emergency responser, may I help you? Yes First Aid all day, no game drives! My pet lip is out, big styley! Saying that it's a fun filled day, with over dramatised scenarios and cheesy videos!

Going Wild about the honey badger trying to raid our rubbish bin!

Suits you, Sir!

Monday 19 January 2009 - The day starts with a trip to SANParks stockroom, where Kirsteen and I are dually kitted out with uniform. In true Africa style this process takes several hours, getting the appropriate forms signed etc. Saying that Reckson (our personal shopper!) is extremely patient, as we chop and change our minds over the colour choice khaki or green, and other requirements such as shorts or trousers! Well what can I say, a girl has to think carefully about her appearance!

No female clothes available, we're supplied with mens uniform in 'small' - the look I am personally trying to achieve is MC Hammer with a hint of Simon Cowell, I can carry it off!

We vacated our huts this morning as we are travelling to Satara later today, therefore lunch is el frisco near the pool, followed by a quick lesson in Afrikaans! Not sure I'm gonna master this language overnight, my inability to roll my R's and produce copious amounts of phlegm is somewhat of a disadvantage!

Before hitting the road, there is a quick visit to the Veterinary department, where Johan eloquently gives a slide show on animal diseases (please I've just eaten!). Rather distressingly we're shown an anorexic lion with bovine tuberculosis, which had been brought into the centre, mercifully it was put down the day after our visit.

Splitting into pairs, we're off, Sandra and I travel together stopping at Orpen Dam for the view point along the way, we make it to Satara with 2 minutes to spare before the gates shut!

In the evening, we watch an open air movie on leopard and lions, filmed by Harry Wolhuters' grandson. The American over dramatic vietnam styley narrator certain overkill!

Going Wild about my first KNP sighting of elephant! With at least 12,000 in the Park, I was beginning to think the over population was a myth!