There's no place like home!

Sunday 25th January 2009 - Paul brings us no luck with the game drive, it is days since we last saw fur! Seriously I am getting withdrawal symptoms!
Today we meet Pearl from the Elephant Hall here in Lebata, home to the great tuskers of Kruger. Pearl firstly gives us an insight into her position at the Elephant Hall and then we have a game of Kruger Challenge, basically designed around Trivial Pursuits, but with a game park theme. With no cheeses - I come from nowhere, winning the game! Oh what sweet victory!
We then spend time looking around the exhibits, which include eight sets of tusks from the great elephants of the past. And can you believe it - amongst the displays I find an advertisement from a business in York, yes York! Advertising elephant rifles of all things - Thomas Horsleys of 10 Coney Street! How bizarre!
Kirsteen and I put our creative talents to good use in the afternoon, creating a poster on the water hyacinth, an invasive alien species, with any luck Lebata will get it printed and use it in future displays. Fame at last!
Going Wild about Marabou storks - the old man of the bush!

Rocking out with your cock out!

Saturday 24 January 2009 - Our last game drive with Pete as he is leaving us today! Title due to Petes descriptive phrase used when male zebra air a certain part of their anatomy! Kirsteen and Pete proceed to have a lengthy discussion, with some extremely imaginative reasonings for such behaviour, somehow I just couldn't find anything intelligent to add!

Before leaving Orpen and travelling to Lebata, we spent a good chunk of the day with Derick du Toit, SA education expert in his seriously condensed training programme, which usually takes several days. Our efforts do not go unrewarded as we all receive a colourful plastic lizard for a job well done - obviously South African version of a gold star!

Sandras boyfriend, who is from Guisborough of all places, joins us for lunch and then drives ahead of us to Lebata, playing a game of bush bingo on the way! Awww bless.

The accommodation at Lebata is out of this world, we have a family house, hosting two bedrooms with en-suites, a large kitchen and living area with huge dining table - call Kevin Moore, we ain't leaving! The house is situated close to the river, so we get to watch hippo, crocs and the odd elephant.

Going Wild about ground hornbill, all three of them, they are on the endangered list you know.

Finger lickin' good!

Friday 23 January 2009 - Over breakfast Sandra regales her previous nights episode - the baboon in the fridge! Sat there with the fridge door wide open mmmm.......what to choose! Cheeky monkey!
Through the thunderstorm and severe fork lightning, we head off into town - Acornhoek to do some food shopping and get a taste of life outside the Park. Pete barefootedly braves the rain saving a puff adder on the road (our hero!).
Lunch is spent at Anjos' - where we sample the best flame Peri Peri braai chicken in the whole of SA, accompanied with mealie pap and washed down with Americas' finest - Coca-Cola. Anjos' business had an unusual start, whilst walking outside his town, he stopped to help a driver with a flat tyre, the guy was transporting frozen chickens, which would be ruined by the time he made his intended destination, he therefore gave his haul to the good Samaritan and Anjos Peri Peri chicken was born! Photo is Kirsteen, Pete and Sandra in Anjos.
Being out of the Park gives you a real sense that you are in Africa, the locals hurriedly go on with their business trying to avoid the rain, ladies balancing either bundles of sticks on their heads or babies on their backs. Children are racing home from school, goats huddled under trucks, trying to stay dry. There are rickety market stalls lined up on the streets, all selling the same thing, bananas, mangos, avocados, onions.
We stop at the local Spar to get most of our provisions, peanut butter and sweet chilli sauce a must or there will be a mutiny! Most of the food available is similar to what you can buy at home without the obvious choice, although we do find packs of calf hooves and a joint of meat with its hide still attached......mmm maybe next time eh! We leave the store after having our receipt and bags checked (job creation) and brave the rain to buy a couple of avos and onions from the ladies on the stalls, trying out our bartering skills too.
As we drive around Acornhoek, it is easy to become perturbed by number of funeral parlours that are running within such a small community. Unfortunately HIV/AIDS is a way of life across South African, with approximately one third of the population being infected with HIV. I personally have found these figures difficult to get my head around.
The HIV/AIDS epidemic increases with a possible 1500 new infections in SA every day. Difficulties such as illiteracy, diversity of population i.e. 11 official languages in SA, lack of infrastructure in rural areas, hinder educational campaigns to actually influence peoples behaviour. Together with inaccurate information provided by people of importance, for example an African politician Jacob Zuma, now running for President was previously tried for raping his niece, who is known to be HIV positive. During his trial, the politician stated that he had consensual sex with the girl and had showered afterwards in the belief that it would decrease his chances of becoming infected. This is worrying to say the least.
Having acquired our marula beer from a large group of high spirited locals (the delicacy of mopane worms being unobtainable, shame!), we journey back on a dirt track, travelling through the local communities, where young children ran out excitedly to wave at the white people in the van. A little cutie sticks in my mind, stood at her gatepost frantically waving, wearing little pink T-shirt saying 'Superstar in the Making!' Life in the rural areas is hard, with some of the children starting work as young as six, as we drive through, we see teenage girls wheelbarrowing barrels of water home.
Eagle eyed Pete to the rescue again, we stop to save a chameleon jerking across the track. As we aren't in the Park, we jump out of the vehicle for a closer look. Aiming for the sun, the chameleon steadily climbs up my hair to get to the top of your head, I tell you its the strangest sensation having an chameleons foot wedged in your ear!
Tonights tea is accompanied by marula beer, very bitter - an acquired taste, me thinks!
Going Wild about giraffe - they are so jurassic looking!

Take a walk on the wild side!

Thursday 22 January 2009 - So what is the guaranteed sure thing to get me out of my bed at 4.00 a.m.? Game Drive! NO, silly!! Bush Walk! Bleary eyed Kirsteen and I meet Gordon and Karral, our bush guides at Orpen's gate at 4.30 a.m., Karral has spotted (pardon the pun) leopard on his drive over, so our morning begins with a quick detour to have a look see by floodlight, unfortunately no leopardus!
Having arrived at the starting point, Kirsteen and I sign our lives away on indemnity forms, as Gordon and Karral load their rifles! Lions roaring and rhino huffings in the distance! The route we're taking has not been walked in over a year due to poachers being in the vicinity, poachers are more dangerous than all the wild animals in the Park, as they are likely to shot on sight. Luckily for us the ring of poachers had recently been arrested by SANParks, therefore leaving the area safe.
So after a quick debrief, we were on our way, single file with Gordon and Karral both ahead of us (apparently it is a proven fact that attacks always occur from the front). Literally five minutes in, we were within 30 metres of 4 white rhino, the problem being the 'crash' included one mother and her calf, with the bull trying to mate with her. The mother spurning his advances, if he successfully mated with her, he most certainly would kill the calf. The crash were extremely agitated and began to stampede, holy crap! With hearts pounding, me and my fellow GVI are swiftly ushered behind a bush! Yes a bush! Luckily we live to tell the tale! Be aware the rangers can shoot a charging animal within 10 metres of humans, rhino can run at 11 metres a second!
The walk continues through sometimes dense bush, with grass tall enough to tickle your nose, stopping to discuss interesting flora and fauna, discovering rhino pits and scratching posts, rhino middens with dung beetle, aardvark burrows, garden and golden orb spiders in their webs, a sighting of two black backed jackals, the list goes on and on. The climax, being within 50 metres of a herd of elephants. We covered 13.7 km, averaging 4 km per hour in the African heat - not bad going for two wee lasses! Photo me, Gordon and Kirsteen approaching elephant (just above Gordons hat in the bushes).
The afternoon was spent washing clothes Widow Twanky styley, relaxing by the pool, throwing frizbee (Pete thought we needed more exercise).
At tea time, Pete did his usual disappearing trick with his mobile phone, standing in the darkness to make his calls! He returned saying that a pride of lions had made a kill, so we all walk to the Parks parameter fence, cup our hands behind our ears to hear lion fighting over the carcass.
Going Wild about a crash of six white rhino seen on our game drive - that's 10 rhino in one day!

Lions, tigers and bears oh my!

Wednesday 21 January 2009 - So what is the guaranteed sure thing to get me out of bed at 4.45 a.m.?? Robbie Williams in his underpants? Close!! Answer - Game Drive! As soon as the alarm goes, it's up, dressed, bit of brekkie and we're off! It is hard to explain the appeal to someone who hasn't experienced a game drive! Of course there is the ridiculous early start, then hours and hours of spent looking into dense green foliage, getting eye strain, seeing only dense green foliage with a smattering of impala! But then there is the upside. For me I guess it's a combination of things, seeing the sun slowly rise, the stillness and freshness of the bush, the smell and the anticipation, it truly alerts all the senses.

On our final drive in Satara, I can see a structure on the horizon, unsure as to what it is, binos at the ready, I thought I'd check it out! Oh just a water container, man made water hole for those tall enough i.e giraffe and elephant! But wait, whats that....fur! Lion I shout! Just to the edge of the container is a magnificent male lion strutting his stuff. By now the vans shrieked to a halt, with all three occupants binos glued to the lion area, and on closer inspection, there look - in the grass, an ear twitched - he's not alone, he has a female companion! So we sit and we watch, we sit a little longer and watch some more, seriously I could be here all day!
Then on the horizon, all ears and tusk! A male elephant taking advantage of the drinking facilities! The elephant promptly chases off the lioness, has a drink, ignoring the male lion, wanders off in the opposite direction. Hold on, wait a minute - I could have some fun here me thinks (Ellie), turning round, he charges at the male lion! Leo scampers off quick sharp, then realising Ellies game, turns back all hard like - I'm not scared of you! Walking back past Ellie to his woman......'saw him off babe', she looks totally unimpressed! So all in all just an average game drive really!
The rest of the day is taken up with a First Aid assessment, drive to Orpen and then bird and tree analysis. Fabulous!
Going Wild about lions roaring in the darkness as we eat our tea.

Go on........give us a kiss!

Tuesday 20 January 2009 - Hello my name is Tracy, I am an emergency responser, may I help you? Yes First Aid all day, no game drives! My pet lip is out, big styley! Saying that it's a fun filled day, with over dramatised scenarios and cheesy videos!
Going Wild about the honey badger trying to raid our rubbish bin!

Suits you, Sir!

Monday 19 January 2009 - The day starts with a trip to SANParks stockroom, where Kirsteen and I are dually kitted out with uniform. In true Africa style this process takes several hours, getting the appropriate forms signed etc. Saying that Reckson (our personal shopper!) is extremely patient, as we chop and change our minds over the colour choice khaki or green, and other requirements such as shorts or trousers! Well what can I say, a girl has to think carefully about her appearance!
No female clothes available, we're supplied with mens uniform in 'small' - the look I am personally trying to achieve is MC Hammer with a hint of Simon Cowell, I can carry it off!
We vacated our huts this morning as we are travelling to Satara later today, therefore lunch is el frisco near the pool, followed by a quick lesson in Afrikaans! Not sure I'm gonna master this language overnight, my inability to roll my R's and produce copious amounts of phlegm is somewhat of a disadvantage!
Before hitting the road, there is a quick visit to the Veterinary department, where Johan eloquently gives a slide show on animal diseases (please I've just eaten!). Rather distressingly we're shown an anorexic lion with bovine tuberculosis, which had been brought into the centre, mercifully it was put down the day after our visit.
Splitting into pairs, we're off, Sandra and I travel together stopping at Orpen Dam for the view point along the way, we make it to Satara with 2 minutes to spare before the gates shut!
In the evening, we watch an open air movie on leopard and lions, filmed by Harry Wolhuters' grandson. The American over dramatic vietnam styley narrator certain overkill!
Going Wild about my first KNP sighting of elephant! With at least 12,000 in the Park, I was beginning to think the over population was a myth!